Venice in Vitro

At the risk of sounding like I am always on holiday or at least that I live from one to the next I find myself writing about yet another Holiday. The fact is we are currently now in Venice. A trip that we have been looking forward to for about a year. Visiting a new place can (perhaps should) be experienced in every tense: Future, planning and research the buying and of course reading of maps and books. The present; the experience, sensual, observational and in the moment. And lastly the past, reflective a compound of ones preconceptions, misconceptions and new experiences.

I had a great time finding out about Venice. Jan Morris’s book Venice is a great read if like me you needed a personal introduction to La Serenissima. I also read ‘Venetian Navigators: The Voyages of the Zen Brothers to the Far North‘ a lovely whimsical account of how Venice’s Nicolo and Antonio Zen might have discovered America 100 years before Columbus and lastly the wonderful Francesco da Mosto’s Venice DVD (BBC) – gripping and insightful. Of course that is a barely scratching the surface of a city that has enthralled Shakespeare, Byron Dickens, Goethe.. well let’s stop there shall we?

So in writing this I am painfully aware that there is not much that I can do add to their sum of knowledge and insight except to humbly insert my impression for what its worth. Now I am a city boy, yes I love the countryside, the peace and quiet of a rural idle but if you want to see the apogee of humanity you have to visit a city. Cities are where we test ourselves, where great art and industry is realised. Venice like my city (London) has been the centre of a trading empire. However Venice’s imperial power went into decline when Vasco da Gama reached India by sea in 1499 and was finally given the coup de grace by Napoleon 300 years later. Since then travellers and perhaps most particularly British travellers have been mesmerised by its decline.

There is no doubt that it is truly is one of the most beautiful cites in the world. The combination of extreme age, water and isolation make it visually irresistible. Even the internal combustion engine – the most destructive urban phenomenon has not blighted it (much). There are no cars on the island so people walk. This means that people talk to each other, they know about the places they travel though as much the places they travel to. In this respect Venetian life is lived as it has been for over a thousand years. What has changed is the volume of visitors. If ever there was a perfect realisation of a Faustian Pact it must be the tourism industry. The money that pours into the city disgorged by the multitude that arrive each day from cruise ships and two airports goes some way to keep alive some of the cultural highlights of the western world but at what a price. The look of frustration and sometimes bewilderment on the faces of Venetians as they try to move around their city during the summer months is very apparent. You can’t help wondering whether some of them would prefer to see the gold leaf of St Marks blowing away on the wind to the hoards of brightly coloured glassy eyed invaders clogging up its narrow streets.

Well we have ridden in a Gondola (and the Tragghetto – four times) Taken numerous Vaporetti. Visited the Doges Palace and St Marks. Shopped in the Rialto. Gone to the Beach. Watched glass blowing in Murano. Visited beautiful Burano and Torachelli. Visited a few churches (as Many as Joseph and Evie could stomach) and have eaten and drunk and made merry. Yes it was not for the feint of wallet. Venice is after all a city where you can see wealth in its extreme very close up. It is, and has always been, a city of Oligarchs. Our last day in Venice coincided with the opening of the Venice Bienalle – a sort of Olympics of the art world. All along the water front from St Marks to the Arsenale were moored the Yachts of the super rich and as we made our way back down the Grand Canal at night on our last Vaporetto ride home we looked up in awe at the illuminated Palazzos. On roof tops and in grand salons the great, the good and the not so good supped their Bellinis and prepared to party into the night. Who cares about the banking crisis or global warming or any other trivialities? This is, as it has always been Venice in Vitro!

Bootnote: There are a few things that really merit a mention. In no particular order first off: Osteria Ca’ D’Oro (La Vedova) Google it and ignore the luke warm comments the meat balls are indeed to die for. Around the corner is Grom – not a traditional Gellatia (ice cream parlor) but awsomely scrumptious.

If you are there for the Art and want to see a painting rather than a ‘concept’ . Go and see Günter Pusch at the Palazzo Albizzi Cannaregio 4118